With the twentieth century came changes in morality, personality, sexuality, and societal values of success, happiness, and power. The United States wanted to introduce democracy to other countries and become an imperial power. World War I, the Great Depression, and World War II affected every aspect of Americans lives. For some, job opportunities became more available, while others struggled to make ends meet. Many Americans demanded that the federal government have a more active role in trying to improve the economy and American life (Hall 131). Hollywood heavily impacted the fashion scene in America. Characters dressed in lavish clothes, played romantic characters, and had the best luck. According to Hall, although interesting, movies left Americans feeling helpless (148). Out of the end of the great depression and the thirties grew new products. Consumerism was in high gear, causing the amount of goods and clothes bought to heavily increase. More families were now able to purchase clothing suited for leisure, something that was previously only acquirable by the wealthy. Casual clothes, due to their practicality and appropriateness for summertime activities, were advertised more by retailers (Hall 132). Particular articles of clothing designed for WWII became everyday outfits. Khaki pants in particular, became very popular. The Eisenhower jacket, worn by both men and women, had pockets, a comfortable fit, and adapted easily to outdoor activities. Hall also states that these qualities would later pave the way for the sportswear industry (133). War called for more men to leave the work place and serve their country in battle. In turn, women started working men’s jobs. Rosie the Riveter became a symbol of women workers. Similar to the post depression era, economic growth in the 1950s resulted in American interest in consumer goods. People wanted to be physically attractive and focused on elongated lines and unnatural shadows. The advertising and publishing businesses saw economic gain due to American’s interests in products (Hall 135). With more interest in products, it was up to the fashion industry to supply for that demand.
Picture timeline of women's fashion from 1910-1960
1910-1940: The Rise of Rayon
Rayon, often referred to as artificial silk, was first used in America in the early 1900s. Before rayon, only natural fibers such as cotton, silk, flax, and wool were used to make clothes. These fabrics were either much heavier or more expensive than rayon (Keist). During WWII, fabric was rationed. Wool and nylon were the main fabrics used to create military uniforms, and were therefore not in full supply for those on the home front. The decrease in these fabrics paved the way for the increase of rayon in clothing production (Monet). Similar to the response of calico fabric in the late 1800s, many women refused to wear rayon because it wasn’t “real” silk. Some women preferred only to wear the highest quality fabric. Rayon, however, allowed women to be fashionable without paying extremely high prices for certain fabrics.
Rayon, often referred to as artificial silk, was first used in America in the early 1900s. Before rayon, only natural fibers such as cotton, silk, flax, and wool were used to make clothes. These fabrics were either much heavier or more expensive than rayon (Keist). During WWII, fabric was rationed. Wool and nylon were the main fabrics used to create military uniforms, and were therefore not in full supply for those on the home front. The decrease in these fabrics paved the way for the increase of rayon in clothing production (Monet). Similar to the response of calico fabric in the late 1800s, many women refused to wear rayon because it wasn’t “real” silk. Some women preferred only to wear the highest quality fabric. Rayon, however, allowed women to be fashionable without paying extremely high prices for certain fabrics.
This is an advertisement for stockings made of rayon. A universal fabric, rayon, could be used to make more than just shirts, pants, and dresses for women. Stockings were a necessity as well.
1912-1930s Evolution of the zipper
Just before WWI, the interlocking metal-tooth version of a zipper was created. This zipper was included in the making of certain WWI military uniforms, such as windbreaker jackets. Although one many argue this does not relate to women’s fashion, much of the clothing women wore during this time period was influenced by military fashion. Zippers in women’s clothing became more prevalent as well. There were many names for zippers, such as “lightning plastic fasteners,” or “zip-fasteners.” Zippers were a more efficient labor alternative to the hook and eye closures previously used. Before zippers, seamstresses spent long hours sewing multiple hooks and eyes onto clothes. Zippers allowed for faster and more production, important factors while the military demanded a large number of uniforms to be sewn. Zippers became more practical, even in leisure clothing. Cuming, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington quote a 1927 newspaper to support this claim: "Many of the new sports suits have zip-fasteners" (1927, Daily Express, 22 November). Not until the late 1930s, however, did statement zippers begin to rise. With the help of Italian designer, Schiaparelli, women saw zippers as a unique addition to their clothing. Zippers are considered to be one of the first machines people encountered in their everyday lives (Cuming, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington 228).
Just before WWI, the interlocking metal-tooth version of a zipper was created. This zipper was included in the making of certain WWI military uniforms, such as windbreaker jackets. Although one many argue this does not relate to women’s fashion, much of the clothing women wore during this time period was influenced by military fashion. Zippers in women’s clothing became more prevalent as well. There were many names for zippers, such as “lightning plastic fasteners,” or “zip-fasteners.” Zippers were a more efficient labor alternative to the hook and eye closures previously used. Before zippers, seamstresses spent long hours sewing multiple hooks and eyes onto clothes. Zippers allowed for faster and more production, important factors while the military demanded a large number of uniforms to be sewn. Zippers became more practical, even in leisure clothing. Cuming, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington quote a 1927 newspaper to support this claim: "Many of the new sports suits have zip-fasteners" (1927, Daily Express, 22 November). Not until the late 1930s, however, did statement zippers begin to rise. With the help of Italian designer, Schiaparelli, women saw zippers as a unique addition to their clothing. Zippers are considered to be one of the first machines people encountered in their everyday lives (Cuming, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington 228).
The top image is a drawing of a zipper and the bottom image includes examples of hook and eye enclosures. Imagine the time difference it would take to sew each individual hook and each individual eye enclosure on clothing when compared to sewing a zipper.
1914-WWI and its effect on women's fashion
During WWI, women gained more rights and took jobs previously occupied by men. Many of these jobs required women to wear uniforms, inching the military look into women’s fashion. Many women adopted the military style, which came to include tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets (Monet). Fashionable women who didn’t worry with working during the war started to wear clothing that had softer lines and followed the curves of their bodies. Fur, buttons, draping, and gathering were all accents added to women’s clothes. The use of these accents made clothing burdensome to care for. Skirts continued to shorten and were now fixated just above the ankles (Hall 152). During WWI, African American women saw more job opportunities in the industrial North, rather than in the South. Once in the North, however, they were rejected from labor unions, received lower pay, and forced to live in crowded ghettos. Because of their state of poverty, African American women dressed in the clothing of earlier periods; a common trend among poor rural people (Hall 153).
During WWI, women gained more rights and took jobs previously occupied by men. Many of these jobs required women to wear uniforms, inching the military look into women’s fashion. Many women adopted the military style, which came to include tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets (Monet). Fashionable women who didn’t worry with working during the war started to wear clothing that had softer lines and followed the curves of their bodies. Fur, buttons, draping, and gathering were all accents added to women’s clothes. The use of these accents made clothing burdensome to care for. Skirts continued to shorten and were now fixated just above the ankles (Hall 152). During WWI, African American women saw more job opportunities in the industrial North, rather than in the South. Once in the North, however, they were rejected from labor unions, received lower pay, and forced to live in crowded ghettos. Because of their state of poverty, African American women dressed in the clothing of earlier periods; a common trend among poor rural people (Hall 153).
Working women during WWI
This image depicts a poor African American woman who was forced to wear outdated dresses due to her economic status and inability to afford the newest fashions. Note the difference between the smiling white women and troubled looking African American woman.
1920-Flapper girl and shortened skirts
The Jazz Age influenced youthful women in the 1920s to bring about the idea of the flapper girl. Not only did the “flapper” have a distinct clothing style, but a unique lifestyle as well. Disregarding prohibition and previous moral standards, flappers smoked in public and danced with jerky movements. Their fashions included shortened skirts, deep necklines, low backs, rolled stockings below their knees, and unhooked rubber galoshes that “flapped” when they walked (Monet). Women’s bodies were exposed more than ever before. The exposure was linked to their need for freedom while dancing in addition to their opposition to traditional morals. Flapper girls created an iconic style that expressed their rebellion and freedom of expression (Ewing 90-91).
The Jazz Age influenced youthful women in the 1920s to bring about the idea of the flapper girl. Not only did the “flapper” have a distinct clothing style, but a unique lifestyle as well. Disregarding prohibition and previous moral standards, flappers smoked in public and danced with jerky movements. Their fashions included shortened skirts, deep necklines, low backs, rolled stockings below their knees, and unhooked rubber galoshes that “flapped” when they walked (Monet). Women’s bodies were exposed more than ever before. The exposure was linked to their need for freedom while dancing in addition to their opposition to traditional morals. Flapper girls created an iconic style that expressed their rebellion and freedom of expression (Ewing 90-91).
This video showcases the love of dancing during the 1920s. Because women were dancing so much, skirts were greatly shortened, exposing more skin than ever before. The video also expresses the flapper style.
1940s- WWII Working Fashion and Factory Bonnets
During WWII many women worked outside the home, either in offices or volunteering to sell war bonds. The suitable attire for these jobs included more businesslike, tailored clothing. A large sum of women also went to work in factories. Different from the fashions of women workers during WWI, women of the forties wore factory bonnets. Made with tough plastic mesh and a broad brim, factory bonnets protected women’s eyes and contained their hair. Factory bonnets were pragmatic because some women’s jobs were dangerous. Previously employed by men, these jobs involved risky machinery. Women had to take into consideration these precautions and adapt their clothing accordingly (Hall 168).
During WWII many women worked outside the home, either in offices or volunteering to sell war bonds. The suitable attire for these jobs included more businesslike, tailored clothing. A large sum of women also went to work in factories. Different from the fashions of women workers during WWI, women of the forties wore factory bonnets. Made with tough plastic mesh and a broad brim, factory bonnets protected women’s eyes and contained their hair. Factory bonnets were pragmatic because some women’s jobs were dangerous. Previously employed by men, these jobs involved risky machinery. Women had to take into consideration these precautions and adapt their clothing accordingly (Hall 168).
Women selling war bonds
Woman worker wearing a factory bonnet
The Great Depression, WWI, and WWII affected the daily lives of Americans. Jobs, the economy, women's rights, and morals changed, transforming women's fashion. According to Lee Hall in Common Threads, “American clothing of the twentieth century has been designed and tested on the new frontiers of sexual revolution, sports, technology and travel, communication and consumerism, demographic and ethnic diversity, class definition, and the new aristocracy. Each of these frontiers symbolized human hope for a better life…and Americans in the twentieth century, have dressed to meet the requirements of the unexplored territories they have set out to conquer” (135).
Works Cited
1930-1940. (2013). Retrieved from http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1930-to-1940/
Cuming, Valerie, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington. The Dictionary of Fashion History. Oxford, UK: Berg, 2010. Print.
Ewing, Elizabeth. History of Twentieth Century Fashion. Great Britain: Berne Convention, 1974. Print.
Hall, Lee. 1992. Common Threads: A Parade of American Clothing. Boston: Little, Brown.
Keist, Carmen Nicole, "Rayon and its impact on the fashion industry at its introduction, 1910-1924" (2009). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. Paper 11072.
http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd/11072
Monet, D. (2013, August 20). Women and fashions of the early 20th century - world war i era - clothing of 1914 - 1920. Retrieved from http://hubpages.com/hub/Women-and-Fashions-of-the-World-War-I-Era-Clothing-of-1914-1920
Monet, D. (2013, September 21). Fashion history - design trends of the 1940's with pictures. Retrieved from http://hubpages.com/hub/Fashion-History-Design-Trends-of-the-1040s
1930-1940. (2013). Retrieved from http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/1930-to-1940/
Cuming, Valerie, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington. The Dictionary of Fashion History. Oxford, UK: Berg, 2010. Print.
Ewing, Elizabeth. History of Twentieth Century Fashion. Great Britain: Berne Convention, 1974. Print.
Hall, Lee. 1992. Common Threads: A Parade of American Clothing. Boston: Little, Brown.
Keist, Carmen Nicole, "Rayon and its impact on the fashion industry at its introduction, 1910-1924" (2009). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. Paper 11072.
http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd/11072
Monet, D. (2013, August 20). Women and fashions of the early 20th century - world war i era - clothing of 1914 - 1920. Retrieved from http://hubpages.com/hub/Women-and-Fashions-of-the-World-War-I-Era-Clothing-of-1914-1920
Monet, D. (2013, September 21). Fashion history - design trends of the 1940's with pictures. Retrieved from http://hubpages.com/hub/Fashion-History-Design-Trends-of-the-1040s
Picture Sources
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