Between the years of 1860 and 1875, magazines were women’s main source of popular fashions. They used these publications to share the fashions they had created and new ideas that were emerging in the fashion world. One of the most famous magazines was Godey's Lady's Book. First published in 1830, Godey's became a widely circulated magazine that reached women of different ages, social classes, and interests. It was considered the bible of all things proper for women. Comparable to the modern magazine, Women’s Day, Godey’s Lady 's Book discussed the topics of fashion, cooking, entertainment, leisure, and even poetry. The magazine not only educated young women on household matters, but introduced them to particular forms of literature as well. Fashion sales skyrocketed in response to this publication. Godey's Lady 's Book recommended innovative ways to modify one’s fashion for work. Articles suggested that women own several sizes of hoops, so that they could participate in a range of activities. Godey's Lady's Book was an influential magazine that impacted the lives of women post Civil War and through the Gilded Age.
When families migrated to the west, carrying possessions with them became a difficult task. Although they were starting new lives, families were forced to pack smart and only bring necessities. Women only had two to three dresses, most in which were made of calico. This cotton based material usually included ornamentation of some type matched with a simple design. Colors were limited and the designs were made using roller printing. Calico fabric was popular because it was washable, durable, and affordable; all of which were important during this time of change and development. Women had little to no time to do laundry, allowing calico fabric to be even more practical. As mentioned before, calico fabric had small printed designs, which were also used to hide stains. Calico allowed women to still look presentable and neat, even if their dresses were not made with more expensive fabrics such as silk or wool. Many women referred to calico as, “cloth of the slaves and lady’s maids.” Some of them even refused to wear calico and rather reworked old silk dresses. Regardless of differing opinions, the creation of calico fabric was essential to the evolution of women's fashion in the west.
As industrialization increased following the years after the Civil War, a new concept, ready to wear clothing, became more prevalent. Previously, the only people who could afford to buy clothes were the rich. These wealthy women wore custom made clothes, which were expensive and time consuming for seamstresses. Other families, especially those in the West, spent a lot of time sewing their own clothes. Urbanization was a major factor in the creation of ready to wear clothing. Factories in cities produced articles of clothing in mass quantities, allowing them to become more affordable to the average consumer. People other than the rich were now able to purchase clothes. Ready to wear clothing also led to the boost in popularity of department stores and national brands. By allowing more people to purchase clothing rather than sew it on their own, ready to wear clothing somewhat bridged a gap between the wealthy and the average person. Although the quality of clothes they purchased may have differed, the ability to purchase an entire ready to wear outfit was a major advancement in the eyes of the consumer.
Image of a textile factory during the Industrial Revolution. Factories similar to this would produce ready to wear clothing in mass quantities.
In the late 19th century, women's dresses started to express an hourglass silhouette. Different from the light and slimming hourglass silhouette known today, the dresses of the late 1800s were extremely heavy. Dress reformers of the time aimed to free women of the uncomfortable and heavy dresses so that they could work and participate in physical activity in a more comfortable fashion. The hourglass aspect of dresses in the 1880s aimed to elongate women's bodies. The dresses had extremely small waistlines, forming an actual hourglass look. Shirtwaists, another name for blouses in the late 19th century, enhanced the hourglass silhouette. They cinched women's natural waistlines and had extravagant puffed sleeves. Women emphasized the bust area by adding layers of puffing to the neck and shoulders of their shirtwaists. The popularity of shirtwaists would later result in mass production and the infamous Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire of 1911.
With the rise of industrialization, garment factory production lines put mechanical sewing machines into use. Sewing machines led to higher productivity, industrial development, and job specialization. In 1889, however, sewing machines were designed and marketed for use in the home. By 1905, the electrically-powered sewing machines were widely popular. The change in dress during industrialization was directly linked to the development of the modern textile industry. With access to machines at home, women had the opportunity to be more creative in their clothes making. The invention allowed women to create more articles of clothing in less time, hence increasing productivity in the home. Electrically powered sewing machines in the home were practical in the fact that families weren't spending an excessive amount of their paychecks on clothing. For some families, being able to make their own clothes and save money in this way were crucial.
Women's fashion from 1860-1910 was heavily influenced by industrialization and urbanization. Inventions and working conditions allowed for adaptations in daily clothing. One cannot forget, however, the women working on farms in the West and down South. These women also adapted to working conditions and changed their daily work attire to better suit farm life. Clothing was a determining factor of social class. Some women could afford custom made clothing, others purchased ready to wear clothing, and even more relied on sewing machines in the home to make their clothes. Regardless of the type of clothing, women's fashion in the late 19th century was a gateway for expression in a male-dominated world. Improvements for women however, were on their way.
"Fashion Forward: The History of 20th Century Women's Clothing." Randomhistory.com. Randomhistory.com, 02 May 2007. Web. 23 Aug 2013. <http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/003clothing.html>.
Cuming, Valerie, C.W. Cunnington, and P.E Cunnington. The Dictionary of Fashion History. Oxford, UK: Berg, 2010. Print.
Hall, Lee. 1992. Common Threads: A Parade of American Clothing. Boston: Little, Brown.
Pendergast, Sara. 2004. Fashion, Costume and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body
Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. Detroit: UXL.
Stamper, Anita, and Jill Condra. Clothing Through American History The Civil War through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899. Santa Barbara, CA: Greenwood An Imprint of ABC-CLIO, LLC, 2011. Print.
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